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The restaurant inside the East Hollywood Union Swapmeet is in some ways a bigger, more direct second act from the ethereal and wonderful original Baroo, while Kwang Uhs cooking affects the brain like taking trigonometry and music-appreciation classes in the same hour. A riff on Hong Kong-style shrimp toast is sweet and crisp and surrounded with dots of pureed avocado and yuzu coulis, while a bowl of octopus carries a fried egg with a handsomely oozy yolk. Diner beware: Baroo Canteens home inside the Union Swapmeet is far from permanent, as the entire building is set to be redeveloped down the line

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